Berlin is famous for its wall. Well, Berlin is famous for the fact that it once had a wall that not only divided the city into east and west, but also entirely enclosed it. While Berlin was forced to exist as an island in the middle of the communist sea, the wall itself became a symbol of freedom for all German people. After years of separation, once the borders opened in 1989 the Berlin Wall couldn’t be removed fast enough and everybody wanted to have a piece of it. But 25 years later, what is actually still left of the original Berlin Wall?
The first thing that needs to be understood is that the Berlin Wall was not just simply a wall, it was actually a whole sector fortification. What started out as simple barbwire fences and blockades on the streets eventually became a really sophisticated and constantly improved border system, consisting of an east wall, the inner wall or Hinterlandmauer and a west wall, the Berlin Wall. Between those two walls there was usually an alarm fence with an additional thorn pavement called “Stalin’s grass”, a patrol road with flood lights, a control strip with watch towers, a ditch with a row of tank traps and sometimes even a section guarded by dogs. The whole area between the two walls was painted white and known as the death zone, as intruders were to be shot immediately.
Although these two walls and the death zone were part of the whole border fortification, the actual separation between the east and west sectors happened at the outer wall, the west wall. This was the wall that was actually called the Berlin Wall. By the time it was torn down it was already the 4th generation wall, constructed out of pre-cast vertical concrete elements, 3.6 meters tall and topped with a round concrete tube. This final version of the wall was actually slightly set back from the actual border, making it even illegal to touch or approach it from the western side of Berlin. So, how much of this real-deal Berlin Wall and how much of the border fortifications are still left in 2014?
Berlin Border Fortifications
The photo shows the border fortifications with the Berlin Wall of the 4th generation, the death zone and the east wall, the so-called Hinterlandmauer. It has been suggested that the watch tower in the photo did not actually belong to the border fortifications, it was rather taken from a factory or military area and re-located here to complete the image of the Berlin Wall border fortifications of the Bernauer Straße.
Not the Real Deal
East Side Gallery
Sorry, but this was never the Berlin Wall. In fact, since the river was part of the eastern territory, the actual border was located on the opposite side of the water, the Kreuzberg side. People seemed to mistake it for the Berlin Wall because it was constructed of the same kind of pre-cast concrete elements. But as the name already suggests, it’s a gallery and not the Berlin Wall.
Mauerpark
Yes, Mauer means wall in German and in fact the Berlin Wall used to be right here where the park still stands, but it has long vanished. It used to be at the bottom of the park, along the west side of Schwedter Straße and for some strange reason it got moved further west a few years before its complete destruction. So even the sign on the street, indicating the location of the wall between 1961-1989 is not correct, as the wall only stood in this location for a few years.
Checkpoint Charlie
A really great place if you like costumes, American flags, Mc Donald’s and fake passport stamps, but unfortunately all this has nothing to do with the Berlin Wall or the actual Checkpoint Charlie. The real checkpoint was torn down in 1990 and the former control house can be found in the Alliiertenmuseum. What you see here today is a nicely constructed tourist attraction.
Potsdamer Platz Surveillance Tower
This was in fact an old East German watch tower, but it was not part of the actual Berlin Wall. In old photographs and maps you can clearly see that the tower was situated away from the wall on eastern territory as a surveillance tower of a sensitive area, but never included into the wall fortifications.
The real Berlin Wall
Watchtower Pushkinallee
This is one of the two remaining original watch towers that were included in the sector fortification in the center of Berlin. Regular watch towers had a 2×2 meter footprint, but this was a 4×4 control tower that remained in its former location, although nowadays it seems out-of-place in a park.
Watchtower Kieler Straße
Even more out-of-place and almost completely built into a housing block stands the second remaining control tower in Berlin Mitte. Today it is a museum and a memorial site for Günter Liftin, the first shot victim at the border. Unfortunately, the caretaker of the tower, who happened to be Liftin’s brother, was not the most cooperative person and after three attempts it seemed enough to see the tower only from the outside.
Niederkirchner Straße
A fenced off strip of Berlin Wall, stretching from Wilhelmstraße to the museum Martin-Gropius-Bau. On the other side of the Niederkirchner Straße a mark in the pavement with a single row of cobble stones can be seen to indicate the former location of the inner wall, the east wall.
Bernauer Straße
Partially reconstructed and restored, this is still is the best example of the Berlin Wall in context with the other border fortifications. Bernauer Straße became a memorial site for the wall and here, besides the short part of the death strip, other excavations and traces of the past can be found today.
Liesen Straße
Hard to see and partially overgrown, on this street lies another short part of the Berlin Wall. It is not a memorial site and not fenced off, so this forgotten piece of the wall made for a nice surprise discovery while tracing it through the city.
The Inner Wall, the East Wall
Norweger Straße
Also hidden away and overgrown lies an unusual piece of the inner wall. Similarly to the East-Side-Gallery it was constructed out of the pre-cast vertical elements of the 4th generation wall, but was actually just the eastern wall of the former fortification system.
Schwartzkopffstraße
This piece of inner wall consists of the typical horizontal concrete planks, stacked between vertical steel posts. It was situated behind a row of buildings and not only the wall but also the original striped fence can still be seen. Only the sign stating “Halt! Grenzgebiet”, meaning “Stop! Border area” has long been removed.
Park am Nordbahnhof
A pretty long strip of inner wall can still be seen in this newly constructed park. What once used to be the rail yard for the Stettiner Bahnhof later became the death zone of the border area and finally a recreational area with beach volley ball fields fenced off by the graffiti enhanced former east wall.
St.-Hedwigs Friedhof
In continuation of the inner wall at the Park am Nordbahnhof, the wall stretches along this oldest Catholic cemetery of Berlin. In fact the wall used to frame the cemetery on two sides, but nowadays only one stretch of the east wall remains along the train tracks.
Invalidenfriedhof
Pieces of the inner wall can still be found on this famous war cemetery. Between the graves for former Prussian Generals, the original patrol road, the cleared death area and the eastern wall seem awkwardly out-of-place. During GDR times the cemetery could only be entered with special permission.
Rudower Straße
Quite a long stretch of wall remains in the south of Berlin between Neukölln and Treptow. Since it was constructed out of the same kind of horizontal concrete planks, the assumption is that this used to be the inner wall. But it could potentially have been the real deal if it was never updated to the 4th generation of the wall.
Traces of the Berlin Wall
Gartenstraße
Looking from Gartenstraße along Bernauer Straße is probably the best area in Berlin to trace the former wall. From right to left: the hollow steel posts represent the inner wall with a clearance strip in front, the steel band on the ground represents the alarm fence, the patrol road can still be seen in full width, the modern lamps dissolve into the original ones and the Berlin Wall can be seen to the left.
Bernauer Straße
The Berlin Wall can also be traced through the many rusting steel rods that allow views but restrict passage. Eventually they turn into the remainders of the actual wall and provide an abstract wall experience. When looked at directly, these steel rods permit views, but when looking along them they give the impression of a closed wall that runs along the road.
Schwedter Straße
In continuation of the wall memorial along the Bernauer Straße, the inner wall can be traced up to Schwedter Straße and the Mauerpark. Even if the street fronts have been partially overbuilt again, a clearance has been left behind the buildings consisting of the former patrol road and steel posts in representation of the former east wall.
Friedrichstraße
The Berlin Wall can also be traced throughout the city by following the double row of cobble stones in the pavement. Here the wall cuts straight through the sidewalk and the Friedrichstraße.
Gartenstraße
In this photo the Berlin Wall can be traced through the park. It was erected set back on top of another brick wall of the former rail yards.
Bouche Straße
The wall in Bouche Straße was actually set right on the street and it can be traced as it turns at an intersection on Harzer Straße in Alt-Treptow.
The Berlin Wall
The Berlin Wall was in place from 1961 to 1989 and it divided not only a city, but an entire nation. In fact, this wall was the front line of the entire cold war and the visual separation between capitalism and communism. The scars it left behind have slowly healed, but the German saying goes that even if the physical wall has disappeared, it still exists in people’s minds.
I personally don’t remember much of the wall itself as I grew up in the west of Germany and simply had no direct contact with the wall. Only after moving to East Berlin in the late 90’s and actually experiencing the leftovers of the wall, I slowly started to understand what it actually meant to have lived in the city during those divided times. While it will still be a while before the wall fully disappears from people’s minds, hopefully at least the original parts will be kept as a visual reminder that no wall can separate one nation forever…
How much did you know about the Berlin Wall? Have you been to the real deal places, or were you fooled by the others?
Nita says
Your post explains the Wall or what’s left of it very well. Good job! I was in Berlin but just for 2 days back, a few years ago and I think I did see some of the real places! I also spent a lot of time at the Topography of Terror and just reading about everything that happened gave me the chills. This Wall has put people through a lot. But, now Berlin is a strong city with its history well incorporated to modern life. I loved Berlin
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks a lot Nita! It’s great to hear that you managed to love Berlin already after two days. It really is quite a unique city and the Berlin Wall certainly adds to the rich history. Nowadays it feels almost unreal that has ever been there, but even if it’S great that it is gone, it’s even better that some real parts still exist as a reminder…
SJ @ Chasing the Donkey says
What a fascinating post. I’ll be honest and say I know very little about this part of history. I mean I know the basics, but I had no concept of the wall like you describe and how very little is left now.
I like the idea of the cobblestones to mark the place, but those steel rods are ghastly in my opinion. Thanks for linking up with us to #SundayTraveler again.
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Dennis Kopp says
Thank you very much SJ! Nowadays it’s actually quite difficult to even imagine how it used to be during the times of the wall, but luckily it’s not entirely forgotten and at least some pieces are still left in place. I definitely agree with you that the cobble stone markings were a great idea and once you noticed them, you will be surprised how many times you will see them all over town. What a strange chapter in German history…
Chanel | Cultural Xplorer says
What a great post about the Berlin wall and about the history of the city. This post is definitely useful for people who travel to Berlin and want to locate where the true wall stand
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks Chanel, it is great to hear that you enjoyed reading about the history of the Berlin Wall. Considering how little of the real wall is still left in place, you are right, it’s definitely good to know where to find it…
Agness says
I’ve been there a couple of times and this place is so fascinating. I don’t like when it’s too busy and it is always great to catch up with German history and see live what you can’t see in your books.
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Dennis Kopp says
It’s great to hear that you have been to Berlin a few times already Agness! If you haven’t all the sites of the real Berlin Wall, I would definitely recommend visiting them next time when you are it town. For a dose of German history it’s definitely well worth avoiding the fake tourist places and seeing the real deal bits and pieces…
Dale says
It’s fantastic to see different parts of the wall for a change and not just the most typically spotted areas, such as the East Side gallery.
I’ve never made it to Gartenstraße during our previous visits to Berlin, but I’d be really interested to take a walk then when we return later this year.
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks Dale! You are right, it was actually quite fun to explore all the different areas of the remaining wall. Definitely visit Gartenstraße and walk up Bernauer when you get back to Berlin, it’s by far the best area to experience the te former Berlin Wall…
Stretchingittotravel says
Thanks for sharing. I just assumed pieces were all over and had no idea how little of the actual wall is left.
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Dennis Kopp says
Your assumption is right and pieces of the Berlin Wall used to be all around, but over the years almost all of them have vanished. Luckily at least a few of them remain and remind of this strange time in German history…
frankaboutcroatia says
I thought I knew plenty about the Berlin Wall, but as it turns out, after reading your post, I didn’t know that much. Amazing story. What reminds me of the fact that Berlin was once a divided city, is the size of the town. It’s really two cities merged in one. Love the fact that you can trace the wall throughout the city by following the cobble stones. Never thought of that before.
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Dennis Kopp says
It’s great to hear that you could learn a little bit more about Berlin and the Berlin Wall. It’s true, is some respect Berlin still feels like different cities grown into one, but the visual differences are getting less and less…
The cobble stone tracing of the wall was definitely a great idea and once you start looking for them, you will be surprised how many time you will come across them while walking the streets of Berlin…
Anda says
Very interesting post. I’ve been in Berlin last fall and didn’t get too much information about the former wall. It is in any case a very sad part of history that shouldn’t be forgotten. As an insider, you probably know better than any of us what this wall meant for the German people.
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Dennis Kopp says
It is interesting that you mention the Berlin Wall as a sad part of German history, Anda. For some reason it seems to be gone for long enough now that people start to reminisce and a sense of East German nostalgia is starting to form. It’s quite an interesting development, but even with the greatest nostalgia, I am sure nobody would really want the wall to be up again…
noel says
What a fascinating tour and highlights, thanks for taking us on this amazing city journey seeing the remains of the wall Dennis.
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Dennis Kopp says
Of course Noel, thanks for joining the tour along the Berlin Wall, I am very happy to hear that you enjoyed it…
Adelina | PackMeTo says
I’ve been to most of the fake walls in Berlin – they just happened to be in all the touristy areas (which I guess is probably why they were placed there). I was under no illusion that they were the real thing. I did see parts of the real wall on Niederkirchner Straße and walked over it on Friedrichstraße though. I didn’t know that the wall remains in so many other places. Great post!
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks a lot Adelina! Yeah, unfortunately some of the so called Berlin Wall areas have become real tourist traps, but it’s great to hear that you went at least to one of the real deal places. Luckily there are a few more in place, if you even make it back to Berlin, they probably make a great place to start exploring more of this fascinating city…
dré says
East Side Gallery ist part of the former Inner Wall.
Dennis Kopp says
Quite possibly so, Dre, or it could just be a retaining wall to fence off the sensitive docking area for ships as many older locals told me. But either way, it’s not the real Berlin Wall that was dividing the east and west sectors of Berlin…
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} says
As a tourist, I would have never guessed that some of those pieces were not authentic parts of the wall or checkpoints. I like how they’ve marked their place with cobblestones. It seems like a good way to remember it while still letting life go on. I found an old travel photo of when my husband visited Checkpoint Charlie and the wall as a young boy in 1976. That was DEFINITELY the real thing.
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Dennis Kopp says
Wow Michele, in 1976 Checkpoint Charlie was definitely still the real thing! It’s funny to think how everything couldn’t be torn down fast enough in the beginning and then only after a while people realized that it would be a good thing to keep some reminders of the Berlin Wall. The cobble stones were certainly a great idea to help remember the wall throughout the city…
Els says
Very interesting post! I was 13 when the wall came down and I remember thinking: what is all the fuss about? Aaah, the innocence of youth Berlin is on my must-visit list for 2015!! Thanks for sharing this, Dennis!
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Dennis Kopp says
Els, I have actually the same experience as you and it really took me a long time to understand what the Berlin Wall actually meant and how life with it actually was. Definitely check out some of the remaining wall traces when you make it to Berlin, I am sure it will be well worth the visit…
David says
Chilling and fascinating at the same time … didn’t know that there is so much of the Wall remnants still standing!
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks a lot David! It’s funny because there seems to be a lot of the Berlin Wall still standing, but when you look closely how much of the real deal is really left in comparison to how much there was, it’s not much at all. It’s definitely good not to fully forget this side of the cold war…
Escape Hunter says
It’s odd to see the old relics of communism become an attraction today.
It’s also interesting how the wall still “haunts” Berlin.
I’d like to visit the city one day
Dennis Kopp says
If you haven’t been to Berlin, you definitely have to visit the city! It changed a lot already in recent years and you are right, the “ostalgie”, meaning the nostalgia for the east has been a strange development. It is still very important not to forget this important part of the history and I personally like to believe that the remains of the Berlin Wall actually complement the city, as they are of the mix that makes Berlin such a unique place…
Monika says
Very imformative piece, and so many great photos! I have been to Berlin few times (my sister lives there) and I have seen Charlie Check Point and the wall too. It was very gloomy piece of German history and I am glad it is down now, but we still should remember about it ever existed.
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Lorraine T says
Great overview showing where the real pieces of the wall are still left standing! I am old enough to remember visiting the wall in 1969 (including the real Checkpoint Charlie) when it was still a grim and foreboding “death strip”. I was only a child, 10 years old, and I was struck by the way it sliced the city in half as if an axe had chopped through the streets and the monuments. It looked so unmovable and indestructible – I NEVER thought to see it come down in my lifetime. I haven’t seen any wall remnants since my 1st trip back there in 1990 and I’d love to return and look them up.
Timo says
Great pictures. I have been only a few times in Berlin and saw just a tiny part of the wall each time. It is interesting to see how few parts are left over from the wall which marked the border between the two military powers.
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Dennis Kopp says
Thanks a lot Timo, it’s great to hear that you like the photos! You are right, unfortunately not very much is left of the real Berlin Wall since people really wanted to get rid of it as fast as possible. But luckily at least a few reminders cans till be seen today…