Visiting Myanmar alone was already an adventure, but using the local train system, Myanmar Railways, was certainly something else.
While staying in Thailand and getting a Myanmar visa in Bangkok, I had heard already some rumors about the local rail system. Some people had mentioned that Myanmar Railways was best to be avoided, while other talked about beautiful sceneries and an epic train adventure. The internet warned simply of the poor rail and bridge conditions, while the guide-book recommended using the bus. But what was really going on, I was about to find out once I managed to get the required crisp US Dollars for Myanmar in Bangkok and then took off for Yangon.
As it turned out, already the first guesthouse strongly discouraged me from using the railway, not only because it was more expensive, but also because it took more time than the bus. Travelling from Mandalay to Pyin Oo Lwin for example took two hours in a slow pick-up truck, while the train needed more than four hours to cover the same distance. Luckily I decided to take the pick-up, because the train managed to have an eight-hour delay on my day of travel. For me, this was a really telling moment, realizing that it was actually possible to have an eight-hour delay on a four-hour train ride that should really only take two hours…
Background of Myanmar Railways
Train Station of Myanmar Railways with Horse Buggy in Kalaw
In an attempt of trying to understand these circumstances, it came up that the railway in Myanmar was actually established during British colonial times. Britain had been using the railway already for many years when they established the first colonial line in British India in 1853. By 1877 Myanmar was following with a track starting in Yangon that stretched by 1898 all the way to the northern town of Myitkyina. Nowadays some of the old British infrastructure was still in use, like the nice colonial railway station of Kalaw for example were people could still be seen arriving in a horse Buggy to catch a train.
Railway Stations in Myanmar with Local Vendors selling Fruits
On the other hand, WW2 and the Japanese occupation with its dark Death Railway chapter left the train system apparently in a really bad shape with only one-third of it operational. Some great repair efforts and extensions of the railway system were launched after Myanmar’s independence with the result that the rail network nowadays was almost twice as extensive as it used to be under British rule. As a result, trains and platforms were always busy with people selling fruits or dragging bags of produce into the compartment. That the trains felt rarely overcrowded was probably the only positive side effect of the comparatively expensive and slow train service.
The Railway in actual Use
Ordinary Class, Upper Class, Upper Class Sleeper and Dining Car
But the real adventure started when actually using Myanmar Railways and first off there were three different train classes to choose from. The Ordinary Class was the cheapest, came with wooden benches and could be paid for in Kyat. The Upper Class offered actual seats, but for some strange reason had to be paid for in crisp US dollars, which was obviously also true for the even more expensive Upper Class Sleeper that was offered on overnight trains. I even spotted a restaurant car once and was simply amazed by the fact that they managed to cook food on their two flame coal stove while the train was in full motion.
Travel Adventure of Crossing between Moving Coaches
How much the train actually was in motion, I came to realize on my very first Crazy Train Ride to Naba and Katha. I was simply in disbelieve how much the carriage was shaking, swaying and moving sideways, starting right from the minute we pulled out of Mandalay station. In order to stand up straight, it was necessary to spread out arms and legs while holding on to fixed items, in order to simply avoid being tossed around in the cabin. Sometimes the train moved sideways and jumped up and down in such a dramatic way that it seemed we might actually derail any given minute.
Snapping Branches on Overgrown Singe Tracks of Myanmar Railways
Luckily no derailing ever happened on my train rides, but the constant motion and the snapping branches of the bushes on the overgrown single tracks was really something unique to the Myanmar Railways journey. I had never experienced something like that before and it was the exact same situation on my two other train rides, from Pyin Oo Lwin to Hsipaw and from Shwenyang to Kalaw. On these train journeys, not only was I covered in leaves after a while, but also the motion was so strong that it was simply impossible to even read a book. Crossing between coaches or attempting to use the toilet became then a real travel adventure.
The Rail Conditions
Warped Rails of Old and New Myanmar Railway Tracks
The reason why the trains were moving and bouncing so much although they were going at a really low-speed was well beyond my understanding. Actually some freight trains were apparently only allowed to go as fast as 25 km/h while some passenger trains had to move as slow as 15 km/h to avoid putting too much stress on the existing rail structure. This seemed very strange to me considering that the railway in Myanmar was established by the British at the same time as the one in India. Why was the situation so much worse here in Myanmar?
Big 3 cm or 1 inch Gap between Individual Rail Pieces
Only when investigating the issue further and walking along some railroad tracks, I realized in which poor condition the rails actually were. Just by looking at the rail heads with the bare eye, it was already possible to see how much they were bent and warped. Strangely enough, but this was the true for old and new tracks alike and the reason lay well beyond my understanding. On top of that, the big gaps between the individual rail pieces probably also did not help the effort of providing a better train experience as well.
Man walking his Cow on Overgrown Railway Tracks
But the other thing that apparently happened was that India upgraded most of its tracks to a broad gauge system while Myanmar was still using an old-fashioned, narrow one meter gauge. Paired with the poor rail conditions and probably worn out suspensions of the carriages, there seemed to be at least some sort of an explanation why taking the railroad in Myanmar had become such an adventurous experience. Also the fact that some stretches of the rail network were so little maintained and overgrown that they were used my locals to walk or feed their cows seemed also quite telling.
In Conclusion
Adventure Travel while Crossing the Gokteik Viaduct in Myanmar
At the end of the day, I found all Myanmar Railways rumors to be true. As a timely means of transport the trains were best to be avoided, they were surprisingly expensive compared to the bus, the rails were in poor condition and it really was an epic adventure to ride in a coach. On top of that, the views of the landscapes and rural areas were simply amazing and could be fully enjoyed due to the low-speed. Also crossing engineering marvels like the Gokteik Viaduct was a fun bonus that lead to the conclusion that using Myanmar Railways was a not-to-miss adventure that certainly made sure that the journey became the true destination.
Myanmar Railways in Motion
Have you used Myanmar Railways before? What was your experience?
I’ve read many excerpts of how scary the trip was and you just added to the story and I would avoid at all costs, thanks for sharing your story.
noel recently posted…Split, Croatia farmers market – Travel Photo Mondays #38
Noel, I don’t think the railway in Myanmar should be entirely avoided, rather used with caution. It’s definitely an interesting experience to use it, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend taking it for a really long distance. But if like to have a better idea of the trains look like in motion, check out the little video I just added to the post and let me know if you still think they look scary…
The trains definitely seem sketchy and should be avoided – thanks for the investigation! I can’t believe that in that bad of shape the trains still operate and people still use them! I would think it would be best to travel by bus!
Lauren recently posted…Aruba Video – Snorkeling and Exploring Oranjestad
You are right Lauren, the bus is definitely the better solution for longer distances and in fact, most people seem to use it. Nevertheless, the train passes same beautiful landscapes and historic bridges, plus it provides a once in a lifetime rail experience. Have a look at the little video I just added, it might give you an even better idea of how the railroad in Myanmar looks like in full motion…
Oh wow….that definitely seems sketchy! The way that it is swaying back and forth. And especially the space between trains…you do not want to fall back there! Although I feel like you could try some James Bond type moves and jump between trains…haha!
Lauren recently posted…Caribbean Cruise – Sailing Aboard the Emerald Princess (Day 9)
Yeah, you definitely want to think twice before you decide to go to the other coach. But since Myanmar used to be a British colony, maybe they used this kind of railway to actually train James Bond… 😀
Wow, what an adventure indeed! Did you ever get motion sickness? I’d imagine with all the bouncing around and back and forth motion, it wasn’t very fun. Thanks for linking up to #SundayTraveler again!
Adelina | PackMeTo recently posted…Chasing Mozart in Austria – From Birth to Death
Adelina, it’s true that motion sickness seems to be an issue on the trains, but luckily it wasn’t. I was only getting dizzy when trying to read anything while the book was moving around in front of my face. But if you like to get a better idea of the train movement, have a look at the little video I added.For some reason it was still fun using Myanmar Railways, at least on a short distance… : )
I love travelling on train. But this definitely sounds like a ride to be avoided. Funnily enough, you seemed like you couldn’t get enough of the shaky, bumpy ride on Myanmar trains – you took it three times :))). I would still like to experience it for myself – those landscapes must be worth it!
frankaboutcroatia recently posted…Plitvice Lakes Croatia: Journey through photos
It’s actually the same for me as well, Frank, I love travelling by train. In this case the first longer train ride up north in Myanmar saved me a flight and the two shorter rides were because of the beautiful landscapes and for that, it was well worth experiencing all the bumping. By the way, if you like to have a look at how shaky and bumpy the ride really was, check out the little video I added. Afterwards you can make up your own mind if the landscapes could be worth the ride…
The trains in Myanmar are really, lets say, different. It is one of those things that I am glad I did once but might not, unless forced, try again. But I can’t wait to get back to Myanmar!
Jonathan Look, Jr. recently posted…Borsang Umbrella Village
Different is a good word to describe the trains in Myanmar, Jon! But with all their sketchiness and slow service, they still provided an unforgettable travel experience and believe it or not, I would actually take them again. And I also would like to go back. Myanmar was a really interesting country to visit, also different from everything else I had seen before…
So, I love trains and I’ll be in Myanmar later this year and part of me wants to ride this one but I’ll definitely be cautious! Thanks for this and linking up to the #SundayTraveler
Ashley @ A Southern Gypsy recently posted…B is for Battlefields : Civil War Sites in Murfreesboro, Tennessee #AtoZChallenge
Great to hear that you are going to Myanmar, Ashley. It’s a wonderful country and now is still a good time to visit before things change too much. Although a few things like the railway system could actually use a little change. Definitely try the train at least for a shorter ride…
Nice close-up of the system. I’m not sure I could help but take a trip anyway, despite all the downsides you’ve mentioned (de-railings… hm…). Not sure how many young kids I’d want to help across that gap for a toilet stop, though…
Bronwyn Joy recently posted…Neighbourhood Noticeboard April-June, 2014
Bronwyn, I would definitely recommend checking out the rail system if you go to Myanmar. It is certainly a memorable travel experience and luckily no train actually derailed while I was using it, so maybe it’s actually not that dangerous. But on the other hand you might end up not only helping that kid across the gap but also having to help it stay on the toilet…
Dennis,
Good to hear you give the railways a bit of a thumbs up at the end, I found them great fun and a great way to interact with people, even if they were a bit bumpy! I seemed to take much the same journeys as you – the journey to Hsipaw was excellent, and up to Naba as well. I preferred them infinitely to the buses – the Burmese are the worst bus passengers in the world and just spent the whole journey throwing up!
Great pictures btw.
Dave
Dave recently posted…Travelling Overland From Thailand To Myanmar (Burma)
Thanks a lot Dave, I am glad to hear that you liked the pictures. I didn’t mean to label the railway system in Myanmar as generally bad, but I was really stunned by how much the trains moved sideways and how slow they went. At the end of the day it was all good fun and a real adventure, pus the amazing views were well worth any inconvenience. Great to hear that you also went to Naba, I liked that village and all the friendly locals there. You might be actually right about the bus situation, I remember some throwing up incidents as well…
What an experience Dennis! It might have been not the best and cheapest way to get to Myanmar, but I’m pretty sure you won’t forget it and you have something to tell. It actually reminds me of when we went from Bangkok to Chiang Mai on a 3rd class train journey, the train carriage was very similar to the ones in your photos. It was a long journey and not the most comfortable considering we were sitting on wooden seats and the train was packed, but I’m so glad we experienced it!
You are right Franca, it really was an experience to ride the trains in Myanmar! But sometimes it’s really good to compromise comfort and experience real local travel. That is also what I did on the railway in India and I usually met the nicest people on the cheapest benches…
I didn’t use any long distance trains when I was in Myanmar, but I took a local commuter train in Yangon, which I loved. I have never seen a train like it. It was more like a animal and food market then a train, but it was fascinating and I loved talking to the locals.
tammyonthemove recently posted…Falling for Sucre
It’s great to hear that you also had the chance to take the train in Myanmar, Tammy! It really was quite a cultural experience, but you are right, at the end of the day you always meet the nicest people there. Unfortunately I missed the Yangon circle line train, but I am sure there will be another visit to Myanmar soon. This country really is just too fascinating…
Wow, looks like an adventure for sure. Taking the bus or train in some of these recovering countries can definitely be a nerve-wracking experience. Love the photos! Thanks for sharing.
Travis recently posted…Beautiful BC from A to Z: K is for Kermode Bear
Thanks Travis, great to hear that you liked the photos! After having been on quite a lot of trains in many different countries, I would certainly attest that that the railway in Myanmar was something special. It definitely was an adventure using it and it left me with memories of a really great trip. So make sure to try it out when you get a chance…
We were on a tight schedule when traveling in Myanmar and because we’d read that the trains and buses took long and were unreliable if you were on a time schedule, we used the in-country airlines to fly between destinations. That too was an adventure, but did operate on time.
Jennifer recently posted…5 Best iPhone Photo Editing Apps
Thank you for your feedback Jennifer! You are right that buses and trains were on the slow side when travelling, and I too looked into taking a flight up north to Myitkyina. But because I was on a tight budget and really wanted to see the countryside, I rather opted for the ground transportation. It took time, but especially the railroad was still worth the experience…
Dear Dennis,
I am so glad to hear that you really like Myanmar and being positive to some difficulties you have faced. Myanmar is not that kind of unsafe and dangerous country as many outsider and media portray. I am not sure you have been to Kyaing Tone in the east and Rih lake in the west, there are more interesting places to be explored and you are welcome to come again. Let me know any travel advise you need for your next visit!
Thank you very much for the offer Ma Aeint! I thought that Myanmar was perfectly safe and I really liked the friendly people I met during my travel on the railway. I am sure there are a lot more interesting places to see in Myanmar and I will be happy to come again for a visit at some point…
The view from the train is so breath-taking! I can’t really imagine how much stuff locals can carry when travelling by trains like they were moving to a new place or something. It’s the same in China. They carry boxes and big bags!!!
Agness recently posted…5 Ways To Beat Homesickness When Travelling
You are right Agness, it’s always amazing to see how many things you can stuff into a train! Luckily there were never really many people on the trains in Myanmar. If they were as cramped with passengers as in India, plus all the stuff, things would have been really out of control…
OMG thats crazy! Thanks for such a interesting post!
No worries Daniil, I am really glad you enjoyed my little adventure with Myanmar Railways…
Great photos Dennis! I took the train from Pyin U Lwin over that viaduct – such a nice ride. This old Burmese guy sat next to me and wanted to listen to my headphones. I played him some David Bowie and he loved it!
Jon @ jonistravelling.com recently posted…The 15 Best Natural Wonders in Southeast Asia
That sounds awesome Jon! It’s great that you also took the same train ride. The scenery was nothing but beautiful and the people amazingly friendly. What an interesting place to travel, especially on Myanmar Railways…
It looks like a “real” traintravel-adventure! Unfortunately I haven’t been in Myanmar till now. But when I will be travelling there, I will be definitively travelling by train.
Thanks Gerry, it really was quite an adventure to be travelling by train through Myanmar. You should definitely go soon and check it out for yourself, I am sure you would be in railway-heaven. If there is such a thing, it would definitely be in Myanmar… 😉
Railway-heaven… sounds great!